Small Town Travel Guide Rejuvenate a declining town: Make Zhushan Beyond Bamboos

On a mellow afternoon, savory Taiwanese meatballs were steaming in front of the Matsu Temple. Young people returning home were preoccupied with colorful sun dried noodles, engraving words on bamboo toothbrushes, and developing new flavors of ice cream. Middle-aged men at the Taisi Bus Terminal were chitchatting — no longer seen as a farewell scene where passengers come and go, but as a homecoming gate.

In a town where residents live by bamboos and pride themselves on bamboo shoots, three out of every ten sentences are centered around whether bamboo shoots will be in good harvest this year. It is strongly advised to pamper yourself with five days of  country life to ease your homesickness with the serene and pleasant atmosphere. 

Zhushan, formerly known as "Linchipu", was one of the earliest developed towns in Nantou. It originated from the time when Chenggong Zheng in Ming Dynasty dispatched a military commander, Chi Lin, for reclamation and aboriginal intermediation. During the Qing dynasty, one had to enter Zhushan in order to cross Central Mountains Range before arriving in Yuli of Hualien, which was why Linchipu was called "the First City in the Front Range." It was not until 1920 that the Japanese government changed its name to Zhushan, according to local characteristics.

Zhushan used to be hailed for the glory of its booming bamboo industry and the many tourists attracted by Sun Link Sea and Chitou. However, the glory faded when 921 Earthquake struck here, resulting in a sharp drop of the population.

"Everyone here shares a common admiration for our hometown. No matter what predicaments we face, we managed to march forward because of this common admiration; which is why I have been willing to stay in Zhushan for 14 years, " said Peichun Ho, the founder of Townway. Born in Shueili but settled in Zhushan, Ho observed that this old town has its hesitations and dilemmas. "Maybe past prosperity has made locals less worried when facing the present decline. However, their indifference is making the returning younger generation nervous and worried about how this town can survive.” (Extended Reading Texts: Repairing an Old House, And Revitalizing A Small Town, Peichun Ho from Nantou: “Strive Until a Chance Gets Visible”)

When Sky Yard, his B&B,  became popular and established, Ho started to contemplate how to bring changes to this town through his experience.

The Light Spot Gathering held on Friday night of the last week every month during past four years allows local businesses, returning young entrepreneurs, artists and craft artists to exchange thoughts, cooperate, and strengthen bonds. In 2016, He rented the old Taisi Terminal Station and used bamboo strips to build Beyoung Garden on the second floor. In December 2018, he worked with Yuantai Bamboo Crafts and locals to remodel the first floor into Taisi Ice Room.  Many local residents, deeply touched, said, "This used to be the station where I left in tears over 30 years ago but now it became the cultural and creative landmark of Zhushan."

The awakening of an old station can be the best field for social education. (Extended Reading Texts: Peichun Ho of Sky Yard, "The Upmost Beauty of Zhushan Shows When a Hand Is Given While You Are Striving Your Best.")

"Starting next year, you can download an app and to apply for an eID card for digital townees. We welcome people from all over the world to be a Zhushanese!" Peichun Ho joined forces with the returning engineer Junyu Huang to turn this old town into an experimental ground for block chain. "You can use the app to purchase tokens and shop with participating stores. Every transaction will be recorded. By clicking the transaction, a list of the production history will show behind each item. Moreover, you can even work for coins and send push notifications on limited-time and limited-offer exclusive promotions!"

"Come to Zhushan and eat sweet potatoes served with bamboo shoots, and savor good tea," said Peiyu Zhuang, Director of the Agricultural Specialty Goods Exhibition Center of the Zhushan Town Farm Association. Zhuang indicated that winter bamboo shoots are analogous to abalones in the plant world. From every December to next April, the bamboo shoots marketplace on both sides of Jishan Rd. is full of excitement. In particular, these bamboo shoots are most welcome especially before the Chinese New Year! Mengzong Bamboo Shoots are small, rarely seen and precious. Shoppers must ask a professional bamboo shoot farmer to go up the mountain to plant the bamboo branches as a mark the day before so that these precious bamboo shoots can be harvested quickly and accurately.

In the origin of bamboo shoots, gastronomes can savor not only the freshness of bamboo shoots, but also the varieties in pickled bamboo shoots, sauced bamboo shoots, and dried bamboo shoots. "We have a soup recipe called 'Suen Guen Suen'. We use sauced bamboo shoots and winter bamboo shoots to make soup. Adding a bit of wine will blend the sourness into the freshness. The sweet flavor comes out after you taste it!" Zhuang also mentioned that the production season of sweet potatoes lasts from November to May. After harvesting the sweet hyacinth Tainong No.64 Sweet Potatoes and the mushy yellow Tainong No.57 and waiting for three  days,  excess water will evaporate and they taste even more tasty.   

A country life in Zhushan can start with a morning stroll in Xiaping Tropical Botanical Garden. The trail, lined with upright Taiwan Incense Cedars, creates a soothing atmosphere. Chengzong Fan, a bamboo craft designer who frequently pays visits to small traditional craft shops, also recommends: "The blacksmith shop near the market is small, exquisite, interesting and historic. It offers attractions beyond experiences. Its works are handmade and yet affordable. When you are free, you can take a nonigiri to Da'an Bamboo Sea Observation Deck and bathe yourself in the picturesque scenery and have a pleasant picnic."

*Author: Queenie Li, excerpts from "2018 DiscoveringSupplies III.", Smile Taiwan. 

Zhushan Stroll Route

Taichung High Speed Railway Station (rent a car, about 70 minutes by car) →Da'an Bamboo Sea (about 50 minute by car) →Zhuang Zi Nan Temple (about 13 minutes by car ) →Chintuan Bamboo Craft Studio (about 15 minutes by car ) → Xiaping Tropical Botanical Garden (about 10 minutes by car)→Forest Noodles (about 5 minutes by car )→Hazelnut Handmade Gelato (7 minutes on foot)→Laifar Blacksmith Shop (1 minute on foot )→The Gallery (6 minutes on foot )→Yuan Tai Bamboo Crafts (1 minute walk )→Beyoung Garden (25 minutes by car)→Bamboo House

Light spot

Taisi Ice Room
No. 27, Caiyuan Rd., Zhushan Township, Nantou County
Facebook: TaisiIce Room

Beyoung Garden
2F., No. 27, Caiyuan Rd., Zhushan Township, Nantou County
049-2656176

Da'an Bamboo Sea
Da'an Forest Road, Zhushan Town, Nantou County

Xiaping Tropical Botanical Garden
No. 21-8, Fangping Ln., Zhushan Township, Nantou County 

Zhuang Zi Nan Temple
No. 40, Dagong St., Zhushan Township, Nantou County
049-2623722

Agricultural Specialty Goods Exhibition Center of the Zhushan Town Farm Association.
No. 2155, Sec. 1, Jishan Rd., Zhushan Township, Nantou County
049-2624077

Editor in Charge: Hui-Hsuan Chang